Classification is central to every Penfolds vintage. Why is it so important?
I have always been drawn to the history of wine and Penfolds is steeped in it. As a Penfolds winemaker we become custodians for wines with a long legacy. Generational transfer of knowledge is at the foundation, ensuring the heritage of our House Style. Final classification is the pinnacle of each vintage, a blind tasting, to tease out the quality and style of each parcel. At one of my first classification tastings, John Bird, former Penfolds Senior Winemaker with 60 vintages of experience, sat alongside our Chief Winemaker Peter Gago and Andrew Baldwin and the broader team. I’m not sure how many collective years of experience were between them but, suffice to say, knowledge was there and shared.
How do you approach shaping the final blends of some of Penfolds most celebrated wines?
It is not always easy to articulate a sensory experience into words. Knowing your vineyards, and the characters they contribute, it all starts there. For me, layering texture begins with a foundation formed by the tannins, intrinsic to the differing soils and climates of individual vineyards. Each parcel needs to bring an element that fits within the greater framework, offering balance, length and longevity.
From your experience at Penfolds Re-corking Clinics, is there a particularly memorable wine?
A 1953 Grange Cabernet. A trial, an experiment, still varietal. It was a piece of history, a moment and now memory entrenched.
Recently you’ve begun working in China, what has surprised or inspired you?
We source fruit from two regions in China. Ningxia, known for its expanse and challenging winters where vines must be buried to protect them. And Shangri-La, with elevated vineyards tucked away on plateaus hidden at the base of the Himalayas. Discovering their unique attributes, and how these regions’ fruit unite with our House Style, is a constant process of surprise. The passion and curiosity of our team, and the generous sharing of knowledge, are an inspirational and ever humbling continuation of my experience in wine. And the food is amazing!
What advice would you share for younger winemakers entering the industry?
The wine world is one of great history and experience – understanding that can be formative. Revisit and challenge. Harness curiosity to bring about evolution. Understand the vineyards. Embrace change, it’s a constant. And find joy in this old endeavour, knowing that people and conversation are at its heart.
Finally, after a long day in the winery, what’s your go-to wine?
How to answer this? Grenache, Champagne, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet… too many choices!