葛兰许的故事

Penfolds葛兰许是澳大利亚的标志,也是受到南澳州国家文物托管局(National Trust of South Australia)保护、列入文化遗产的葡萄酒。这种葡萄酒同时体现了地域特点和澳洲农业创新的精髓。

葛兰许的故事讲述了个人奋斗所取得的成功以及超越常人的远见卓识,深植澳大利亚的文化当中。这个故事也承载着历史、声誉与持久品质,与优秀的波尔多葡萄酒有着千丝万缕的联系。

从1951年首批试验葡萄酒到当前发售年份,葛兰许无疑是世界上最负盛名、最受品酒家赞誉、最经典的葡萄酒之一。自诞生以来,这款神奇葡萄酒背后的酿酒理念几乎没有改变,不过,连续四代高瞻远瞩的首席酿酒师始终是葛兰许的守护者,他们不断完善及改进着葛兰许的酿造流程。葛兰许以设拉子为主要原料,经常会加入少量赤霞珠,是一款优美、诱惑、拥有鲜明现代气质的葡萄酒,被收藏家与评论家视为真正与众不同的卓越之酒。

“我们不能惧怕跟随自己的信念,继续利用我们的酿酒创作力,随时准备开展试验,以获得非凡、出色而独特的葡萄酒。”
马斯·舒伯特,前任首席酿酒师、葛兰许缔造者。

经典的诞生

葛兰许的历史是一段耐人寻味的故事,讲述了个人意志与几乎无法对抗的命运之间的抗争。1949年下半年,马斯·舒伯特被派往法国和西班牙调查雪利酒的酿造工艺与波特酒的生产状况。在一次前往波尔多的旅行中,舒伯特参观了梅克多的多家出色的葡萄园酒庄,包括头等苑拉斐酒庄(Château Lafite Rothschild)、拉图尔酒庄(Château Latour)和玛歌酒庄(Château Margaux),在这些酒庄,他获得了“品尝及评估40至50年波尔多葡萄酒的宝贵机会”。正是这次机遇改变了澳大利亚葡萄酒的发展方向。舒伯特对这种法国窖藏风格的葡萄酒印象深刻并从中深受启发,梦想酿造出他自己“既独特又持久”的作品。

回到阿德莱德后,正赶上1950年份酿造,马斯·舒伯特马上着手寻找合适的“原材料”。 舒伯特将传统的澳大利亚工艺、在波尔多获得的新理念与Penfolds的精确酿酒运作结合在一起,于1951年酿造出首款试验葡萄酒。

他的目标是充分提取所采用葡萄原料中所有成分的精华,生产出酒体醇厚饱满的葡萄酒。虽然1951年份酒(从未进行商业发售)所取得的成功有限,但它并未全面反映舒伯特的梦想。

1952葛兰许埃米塔吉(当时的名称)的商业发售在澳大利亚葡萄酒史上是一个历史性的时刻。它标志着一个“葡萄酒王朝”的开端,而这个王朝将会长期地激发着澳大利亚葡萄酒消费者的想象力。

THE STORY OF GRANGE 
 
In 1957, MaxSchubert was asked to show his efforts in Sydney to top management, invited wine identities and personal friends of the board. To his horror and humiliation the Grange experiment was universally disliked. Even further tastings in Adelaide resulted in negative opinion. One critic observed, 'Schubert, I congratulate you. A very good, dry port, which no one in their right mind will buy – let alone drink.' Embarrassed, angry and dejected, Max Schubert's ambitions to make 'a great wine that Australians would be proud of' were completely destroyed. Grange was dead. 
 
It was the happenstance of distance between senior management in Sydney and winemakers in Adelaide, 1,400 kilometres apart, which saved Grange. With the help of Magill's assistant general manager Jeffrey Penfold Hyland and Schubert's team of winemakers, all the experimental Grange was hidden in the underground cellars of Magill and from 1957 to 1959, the 'hidden Granges' were made without the knowledge of the Penfolds board. Max Schubert continued to source fruit and make his experiments in secret.
 
Although management was kept away, friends and associates were occasionally brought in to taste the wines. Some bottles were even given away. Although considered uncommercial in 1957, news was filtering out about Schubert's unique Grange Hermitage. A second tasting with the same board members was organised of the 1951 and 1955 vintages, both with bottle age development, were greeted with enthusiasm (the 1955 went on to have a very successful wine show career). The Penfolds board ordered production of Grange to restart, just in time for the 1960 vintage. During the 1960s Grange firmed its position as Australia's most distinguished wine. The rest is history. It marked the beginning of a 'dynasty of wines' that would capture the imagination of the Australian wine consumer.