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28 April 2010

Penfolds Grange Shiraz 2005

Campbell Mattinson, Wine Front Monthly

95 points
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $549
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2017 – 2035

I don’t yet have the details on this release - in terms of where the grapes were grown etc. But I’ve tasted the wine and will open another bottle (and refresh this review) some time in the next week or two. Penfolds Grange 2005 - it doesn’t come with the hype of the 2004, but it is no slouch.

In fact it’s beautiful. Showy vanillin, coffeed, toasty oak is the first impression – as you’d expect of a Grange - though it’s neither syrupy nor malty. The big surprise with this release though is that it doesn’t have the bigness of tannin that some (or most) Grange releases boast. Is this a bad thing? In this case, no - because the balance of this 2005 is brilliant. So too is the dark fruit power motoring through the finish. Grange is renowned for its ‘formula’, but this vintage changes the tune according to the wants of the season - less muscle, more finesse. A vote for the craft of the winemakers involved. It’s persistent and seductive and awash with flavours of sweet, dense, meaty, smoky, leathery blackberry and blackcurrant. It does the Grange name proud.

We have, of course, reviewed a few Penfolds Granges in our time.

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