Region: Tasmania, Adelaide Hills, Henty
Tasted: March 2010
Closure: Screw cap
When Penfolds embarked on its project to create a white wine to stand alongside Grange, the recipe was completely wrong. While “powerful’ and “oaky” might be themes that command respect in the world of big reds they most definitively do not in the white wine world. This acknowledged, the move away from both of these traits has been dramatic in recent years, expressed most emphatically in the 2007 vintage. Delving ever further into the cool south, this wine includes a record level of Tasmanian fruit (edging close to fifty percent), as well as a lower dose of new oak (a touch over one-third). This produces a wine of greater definition than this label has exhibited to date. Cool, zesty, Tasmanian acidity infuses the wine with a lingering minerality and a backbone which carries it long into the finish. It ricochets with all manner of fruits – figs, peaches, citrus zest and the complexity of lemon curd. The recipe, at long last, is spot on.