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25 June 2014

2009 Penfolds Bin 23 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir

Tyson Stelzer,

Vintage: 2009 Price: $50 Points: 93 Alcohol: 14.0% Region: Adelaide Hills Tasted: March 2010 Closure: Screw Cap

The inaugural Penfolds Bin Pinot will amass more than its fair share of sceptics, and for no other reason than that it has “Penfolds” and “Pinot” on the same label. Understandably so, for the company that has done more to raise the profile of powerful, long-lived, oak-driven reds than any other in Australia. But this is the new Penfolds, a Penfolds that can craft a restrained Chardonnay as skilfully as it can assemble a formidably age-worthy Shiraz. And this is a Pinot, in all of its stewed beetroot, sour cherry, exotic spice and lifted floral glory. There’s just the right does of wood spice and fine oak tannin to remind us that this is Penfolds. But not the Penfolds we thought we knew. It’s Peter Gago off-piste. And I love that.